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González Byass enters the Almadraba –the millennary technique for trapping and catching bluefin tuna, used form pre-Roman times to this day– led by Petaca Chico, a family business devoted to fishing and exporting. With this trip blog, Tío Pepe wants to unite land and sea thanks to the salty links provided by the Mediterranean Sea, the Atlantic Ocean and the East and West winds constantly blowing in the Cadiz province.
The day began at mid-morning, the fishing boats waiting by the side of the dock to set sail for the nearby almadraba, only a few miles away: on them, more than 40 men awaited the orders of the captain.
Pedro Muñoz, owner of family company Petaca Chico, talks to the team of professional divers –those in charge of the sacrifice of the bluefin tunas, which are now unmistakably visible under the waters. Their main aim is that the animal does not or suffer or get stressed, so that its flesh may remain smooth and tight at all times.
The water begins to boil and the dorsal fins protrude from the water like sharp knives. The divers, perfectly instructed from the sacada or chief boat, start catching the tunas which, in turn, are expertly hoisted onto another boat called testa, the one that will bring them to port. Astonishment, fascination and even admiration cover the faces of the spectators who, cameras in their hands, immortalise different epic scenes that succeed each other.
On the way back to the port of Barbarte, one of the divers tells stories and anecdotes about the dreaded orcas, here called espartes: fleeing this voracious cetacean is the reason why tuna swim so close to the coast in their migrations. Meanwhile, the crew arranges the loading and unloading of the fish on board, under the supervision of some Fishing Ministry technicians, who certify that the measures adopted for the recovery of tuna have been implemented.
Already on land, next to the beach of Hierbabuena, begins a sand-and-gravel path that enters Pinar de la Breña, a Natural Park on the highest cliff in the area, from which all the Costa de la Luz and even Africa can be gazed at. In a light breeze from the west awaits Antonio Gómez, manager of the Park, who provides some information about the natural wealth and value of this milieu.
Among pines, rosemary and unique varieties of coastal juniper, a cosy recess barely discernible from the surrounding sandstone becomes a perfect tasting stage that gives meaning to the thousands of possible pairings between bluefin tuna and sherry wine. The chef in charge of this noble task is Mauro Barreiro, a young local cook with a wide experience, ambassador of tuna for Petaca Chico and great lover of the González Byass wines. At his side, ready to lead a masterful tasting, is Antonio Flores, winemaker of the wineries and known in the world of wine as @hacedordevinos.
Tío Pepe opens a lavish picnic with a selection of prime preserves that Petaca Chico has launched to the market. Tuna tarantelo, parpatanaand mormo are some of the select cuts used for these delicatessens.
Antonio presents Tío Pepe in Rama 2017, a wine that he defines as "wild and alive", bottled without having been filtered or stabilised, directly from the barrel. The tasting, surrounded by some magic vegetation and seabirds, reaches its peak moments. Mauro's passion, his knowledge of the raw ingredients and his affinity with Antonio soon produce unique culinary harmonies, like a loin tartar on glass bread made with Amontillado Viña AB. The Asian style cuts give way to pure tradition on the dish, with a tuna stewed in onion that he naturally merged with Leonor, a proper Palo Cortado. Noé Pedro Ximénez, with more than 30 years of age, of an impenetrable ebony colour that gives off a symphony of old confectionery aromas, superbly closes this unforgettable eating experience.
Time seems to have stopped at the top of the cliff and our gazes are lost in the horizon, full of admiration for what we had lived. But the day still had more surprises. Led by environmental leisure company Nebur, we accessed Torre del Tajo, a defensive construction of the sixteenth century, from which we could enjoy again a panoramic view of the immense seas of pines and waves.
This new # TíoPepeExperience was the perfect showcase to connect sherry wines from Jerez with their closest environment, which lends them their character and makes them unique. What he had just experienced was the union of land and sea, sherry wine and bluefin tuna, family and passion.